CoverGirl: Simply Ageless

February 7, 2009 at 11:24 pm (CoverGirl, cream, foundation)

CoverGirl Simply Ageless

CoverGirl Simply Ageless

This is the latest (and most affordable version) of the new group of foundations being released that also contain anti-aging serums. Having this kind of product combination seems like a good idea for women who find it time consuming or difficult to apply a foundation and facial serum separately. But I do wonder if a using a foundation with serum will provide the same level of protection against aging that applying a serum and then a foundation does.

Covergirl’s serum partner is Olay, a company whose anti-aging products have been shown in studies to be more or just as effective as serums several times its cost. If you don’t have sensitivities to Talc or Titanium Dioxide this should work well. For whatever reason, Olay’s anti-aging products with Niacinamide have always broken me out. As for shades, this comes in the same ones as all the other Covergirl foundations. There’s a wide range for women across the skin color spectrum. But, as usual, the foundation makes a huge jump from Tawny and Toasted Almond to the much darker Sable. Plus, the darker shades have an orange undertone typical of drugstore cosmetics.

Active Ingredient: Titanium Dioxide
Other Ingredients: Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Talc, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax, Isotridecyl Isononanoate, Ozokerite, Acetyl Glucosamine, Silica, PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Sorbitan Isostearate, Aluminum Hydroxide, Tocopheryl Acetate, Dimethicone, Dimethicone/Methicone Copolymer, Panthenol, Propylparaben, Methylparaben, Stearic Acid, Methicone, Disodium EDTA, Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate. May Contain: Iron Oxides, Titanium Dioxide

Cost: $15.99

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CLINIQUE: Superfit Makeup

February 1, 2009 at 9:08 pm (Clinique, foundation, liquid)

Clinique Superfit Makeup

Clinique Superfit Makeup

I knew Clinique was going through a huge transition with its foundations when it became harder to find some of its old stalwarts. Superfit makeup was one of those Clinique perennials; the company relaunched it last year. The foundation is supposed to be a long-wearing one that withstands humidity and the oily onslaught of your T-zone area. Unfortunately, this foundation contains Isostearyl Palmitate, which can irritate skin with repeated use. It would be wise to start using it in an unobtrusive area before applying it to your face.

One thing that always horrified me about Clinique’s makeup is how unnatural some of the shades look, particularly the ones for women of color. The company seemed to rectify matters when it launched the Perfectly Real line. Superfit doesn’t provide the wide range of shades that Perfectly Real does, but at least Clinique is acknowledging women of color. There are three shades in the olive/dark range: Nutmeg, Toffee Brown and Spicy. Unfortunately, the Nutmeg looks extremely orange. Fair-skinned women are also complaining that the lightest shade is too dark for them. Clinique could probably do a lot more business if it began offering products that work for women at the extreme ends of the skin shade spectrum.

Ingredients: Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Butylene Glycol, Nylon-12, Bis-Peg/Ppg-14/14 Dimethicone, Trimethylsiloxysilicate, Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, Isostearyl Palmitate, Triethylhexanoin, Magnesium Stearate, Silk Powder\Serica\Poudre De Soie, Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract, Laminaria Saccharina Extract, Bisabolol, Cetyl Peg/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Glycerin, C9-15 Fluoroalcohol Phosphate, Hexyl Laurate, Laureth-7, Nylon-6, Polyethylene Terephthalate, Polyurethane-9, Polyethylene, Hydroxyapatite, Dimethicone, Alumina, Silica, Sodium Chloride, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Sorbic Acid, Chlorphenesin, [+/- Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Iron Oxides (CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499), Zinc Oxide (CI 77947), Mica]

Cost: $20.50

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PERFEKT: Skin Perfection Gel

January 25, 2009 at 8:20 pm (foundation, Perfekt)

Perfekt Liquid Foundation

Perfekt Liquid Foundation

This is another one of those silicone-based, foundation/primer combination makeups that became quite popular in 2008. With these all-in-one products, the foundation provides color while the silicones make the skin look matte and pore-free. But as with Armani’s Face Fabric, this foundation won’t cover significant skin discolorations.

The Skin Perfection Gel is worth a look if any of the other foundations of this kind caused breakouts. But be careful. This formulation contains isododecane, a known skin irritant, as it’s first ingredient. Test it behind the ear for awhile to see what kind of reaction your skin has to it before smearing it on your entire face. There’s a “To-Go” version for $17.50 if you want to give it a try without the investment.

This product comes in a nice range of shades including Translucent, Luminous and Radiant for fair skin; Rich for olive or darker skin; and Decadent, a mohagany brown for dark skin.

Ingredients: Isododecane, Polysilicone – 11, Dimethicone, Retinyl Palmitate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Montmorillonite, Thioctic Acid, Titanium Dioxide CI 77891, Iron Oxides CI 77499, CI 77492, CI 77491.

Cost: $57.50

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NEUTROGENA: Mineral Sheers Liquid Foundation SPF 20

October 25, 2008 at 7:38 pm (foundation, liquid, Neutrogena)

Neutrogena Mineral Sheers Foundation

Neutrogena Mineral Sheers Foundation

This drugstore product seems to be trying to capitalize on the success of Yves Saint Laurent’s Perfect Touch makeup. Both use a brush attached to the foundation bottle so you can stroke the product onto your skin easily. I never though this method of application was a good idea. What happens if you squeeze too much product out of the bottle? Is there a way for you to push the extra foundation back into the container? The attached brush may also, in constant use, accumulate yucky things that you don’t really want to brush onto your face repeatedly.

I’m also disappointed with the shade selection of this product. Mineral Sheers Liquid comes in 12 shades, but Neutrogena clearly only wishes to accommodate a limited range of skin tones. Women with dark skin are simply not in that category, apparently. Those with honey colored skin are probably the darkest ones who can use this makeup since “Tan” is the darkest shade. If this approach works for Neutrogena, fine. But it seems to me the company is ignoring a huge audience of potential customers by not having foundations that serve a wider variety of skin shades.

Active Ingredients: Octinoxate (7.5%), Octisalate (3%), Titanium Dioxide (6.3%)
Inactive Ingredients: Water, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Cyclomethicone, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Silica, PEG-75 Stearate, Butylene Glycol, VP/Hexadecene Copolymer, Dimethicone, Lauroyl Lysine, Retinyl Palmitate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ascorbic Acid, Pantothanic Acid, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Flour, Caprylyl Glycol, Ceteth-20, Steareth-20, Sclerotium Gum, Polymethylmethacrylate, Tetrasodium EDTA, Ethylparaben, Methylparaben, Proplyparaben, Phenoxyethanol, Sorbic Acid, Mica, Iron Oxides

Cost: $14.49

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LAURA MERCIER: Illuminating Tinted Moisturizer

September 21, 2008 at 4:10 pm (foundation, Laura Mercier, tinted moisturizer)

Laura Mercier Illuminating Tinted Moisturizer

Laura Mercier Illuminating Tinted Moisturizer

Laura Mercier has a new addition to its tinted moisturizer line. The Illuminating Tinted Moisturizer is advertised on the Laura Mercier website as a buildable foundation that can be used alone or with your regular foundation as a highlighter. It mainly seems to give the skin radiance and add moisture. But women with combination or oily skin should tread carefully. It’s a pretty heavy product with shea butter, castor oil and olive oil. It could cause breakouts.

This product comes in three “shades”: Bare Radiance, Natural Radiance and Warm Radiance. As usual for Laura Mercier, the selection for dark-skinned girls leaves a lot to be desired. The Warm Radiance, the darkest shade, looks grayish on the skin, leaving behind an ashy, silver shimmer. Women with lighter skin may have some luck with the Bare Radiance. It looks almost golden but, depending on your skin tone, the dark tan shade could also be too light.

Active Ingredients: Octinoxate 7.50%, Avorbenzone 2.00%.
Other Ingredients:
Water, Dimethicone, Cetearyl Alcohol, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Xylitylglucoside, PEG-40 Castor Oil, Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Hexyl Laurate, Anhydroxylitol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Ascorbate, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Hydrogenated Olive Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), XYlitol, Copper Gluconate, Allantoin, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, Polysorbate 60, Phenoxyethanol, Butylene Glycol, Tribehenin, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Carbomer, Aminomethyl Propanol, Tetrasodium EDTA, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate. (+/-): Titanium Dioxide, Iron Oxides, Mica, Tin Oxide.

Cost: $42

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NARS: Firming Foundation

September 13, 2008 at 7:46 pm (foundation, liquid, NARS)

NARS Firming Foundation

NARS Firming Foundation

NARS just introduced this new Firming Foundation. It’s not listed on the company’s site yet, but it’s now available at Sephora, Nordstrom and Saks. One great thing about this makeup is that NARS really extended its shade range. Jamaica was the darkest shade in the Oil Free Foundation, which was my favorite before I realized it was breaking me out. The Balanced Foundation includes Jamaica, Tahiti and Hawaii for darker skinned girls. This new line features New Guinea for medium complexions with yellow undertones and Benares for medium complexions with red undertones. Plus Trinidad for dark complexions with yellow undertones and Torguga for the darkest complexions. Shades such as New Orleans, Cadiz and Tahoe should serve light skinned women well.

What I really like about this makeup is its really simple formulation. Firming Foundation is basically a glycerin-based foundation that includes a lot of antioxidant ingredients and Polypeptides, which are great for the skin. One question you have to ask yourself is whether you apply enough foundation on your face to get the benefits of the ingredients. If you do, Firming Foundation could be worth its rather high price tag.

Ingredients: Vitamin E Acetate, Argireline, Dermaxyl, Rigin, Boswellia Extract, Algae Extract, Centella Asiatica Ext. Organic, Gatuline RP with Vitamin C, Glycerin, Fucus Vesiculosus Extract, Ascorbic Acid, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide

Cost: $50

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BOBBI BROWN: Moisture Rich Foundation SPF 15

September 6, 2008 at 8:41 pm (Bobbi Brown, foundation, liquid)

Bobbi Brown Moisture Rich Foundation

Bobbi Brown Moisture Rich Foundation

This popular foundation is a Bobbi Brown classic for women with normal to dry skin. Warm Natural, Honey, Golden, Warm Almond, Almond, Warm Walnut, Walnut, Chestnut and Expresso will work for women with a wide range of skin colors and undertones. The foundation is also buildable, so it should hide any skin imperfections.

One problem I have long had with this line is that the darker colors, i.e. Walnut and Chestnut, tend to veer towards orange. But I give Bobbi Brown kudos for adding more deeper shades into the mix. A few years ago, she only sold the Almond, Walnut and Chestnut, which went from yellow undertones to a deep orange. Unfortunately, although I love the concept of Bobbi Brown’s makeup line, her foundation and concealer products tend to break me out. This product contains Isocetyl Alcohol, which is highly comedogenic. Jojoja oil also may cause some women’s skin to break out, but other women really love using it as a moisturizer.

Ingredients: Purified Water, Cyclomethicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Butylene Glycol, Dimethicone, Dimethicone Copolyol, Carpylic/Capric Triglyceride, Octyl Methoxycinnamate, Isocetyl Alcohol, Isohexadecane, Wheat Germ Glycerides, Magnesium Sulfate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Jojoba Oil, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Whey Protein, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Lavender, Triethyl Citrate, Cholesterol, Linoleic Acid, Propylene Carbonate, Sorbitan Stearate, Dimethicone Copolyol Crosspolymer, Quaternium-18 Hectorite, HDI/Trimethyol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, Cetyl Dimethicone Copolyol, Laureth-7, Xanthan Gum, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Triclosan, Chloroxylenol, BHT, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben. (+/-)Titanium Dioxide, Iron Oxides, Mica

Cost: $42

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PRESCRIPTIVES: All Skins Mineral Makeup

August 30, 2008 at 8:47 pm (foundation, loose powder, Prescriptives)

Prescriptives All Skins Mineral Foundation

Prescriptives All Skins Mineral Foundation

Prescriptives has jumped on the bandwagon and introduced a mineral makeup line. It goes one step further than the others out there by adding semi precious gems such as rose quartz and amethyst to its formulation. According to Prescriptives, the latter two ingredients, plus the mineral calcite, give the skin more radiance. But all mineral makeups claim to make you “glow from within.” I’m not sure if additional minerals and gems enhances that ability or not.

Prescriptives offers warm and cool options for this foundation. Women with yellow or peach undertones should try the warm shades while those with pink, bluish undertones should look to the cool shades. There are six levels of shades in each section and, as usual for Prescriptives, they will work for a wide range of women of color. The ingredients content is another matter. Personally, I would try this product on my hand, but I could never put it on my face since it not only contains Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide but Squalane as well. I’d be a pimply mess within the week if I used this.

Active Ingredients: Titanium Dioxide 12.00%, Zinc Oxide 4.90%

Other Ingredients: Squalane, Lecithin, Quartz , Amethyst, Calcite, Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Maleate, Silica, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol. [+/- Mica, Titanium Dioxide (ci 77891), Iron Oxides (ci 77491, ci 77492, ci 77499), Bismuth Oxychloride (ci 77163)]

Cost: $32.50

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NARS: Powder Foundation

August 17, 2008 at 4:50 pm (foundation, NARS, powder)

NARS Powder Foundation

NARS Powder Foundation

When NARS introduced this powder foundation several years ago, I really wanted to try it. It arrived around the time I was having a love affair with mineral foundations. The idea of having a foundation do some of the work of a sunscreen really appealed to me. NARS offered an opportunity to get the sun protection of a mineral makeup in a more sophisticated formulation. Only later did I realized that my skin reacts poorly to Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide.

Unfortunately, the shade selection quickly shoved this product off my “to try” list. The Jamaica shade in NARS’s Oil-Free Foundation works well for me, but the same shade in the Powder Foundation was much too light. According to the NARS website, Jamaica is for dark complexions with yellow or neutral undertones. But when I tried the Powder Foundation, Jamaica made my skin look ashy. The shades Budapest, Barcelona, Santa Fe, St. Tropez, Sahara and Sedona should work for women with light to dark tanned skin. But women with brown skin will be disappointed with this product.

Active Ingredients: Octinoxate (4.9%), Titanium Dioxide (6.6%)
Inactive Ingredients: Nylon 12, Calcium Stearate, Silica, Lecithin, Dimethicone, Isopropyl Jojobate, Jojoba Alcohol, Jojoba Esters, Trimethyl Siloxysilicate, Lauroyl Lysine, Methicone, Sorbitan Sesquioleate, BHT, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, May Contain: Mica, Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Iron Oxides (77491, 77492, 77499)

Cost: $45

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CARGO: Foundation Oil Free

August 16, 2008 at 8:20 pm (Cargo, foundation, liquid)

Cargo Oil Free Foundation

Cargo Oil Free Foundation

Cargo is another cosmetics line that offers a wide range of shades for women of color. I love how this foundation comes in a squeezable bag, it provides a welcome change from the familiar glass bottle, stick or compact. But I would be concerned about spills if I didn’t/couldn’t close the bag immediately after squeezing makeup out. And if something  accidentally dropped on the foundation, I’d worry that the impact could make some makeup squirt out.

I tried the line’s oil free foundation several years ago and easily found a shade that matched my brown skin with yellow undertones. There’s a lot to choose from. F40 is a neutral sandy beige; F60 is a cafe au lait with pink undertones; and F80 is a mocha with yellow undertones. Things went downhill after I started using this makeup, however. I quickly began to breakout and had to go into cease and dismiss mode. There’s no way to know what ingredient or ingredient combination caused the reaction. But this foundation does contain Sodium Chloride, which is known for being highly comedogenic.

Ingredients: Water, CyclopentaSiloxane, Isododecane, Sorbitan Isostearate, Glycerin, Caprylyl Dimethicone Ethoxy Glucoside, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Aluminum Magnesium Hydroxide Stearate, Zinc Stearate, Silica, Sodium Chloride, Methylparaben, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Fragrance, Propylparaben, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Linalool, Benzyl Salicylate, Coumarin, Hydroxyisohexyl 3 Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde, Citronellol. May Contain: Mica, Titanium Dioxide, Iron Oxides, Ultramarines

Cost: $28

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