STILA: Sheer Color Tinted Moisturizer SPF 30 Oil Free
I love the idea of tinted moisturizers, which give the coverage of a light foundation plus the protection of a sunscreen. But I’ve never been able to find one that works for me. I’m also skeptical about the product’s ability to protect my skin from the sun. Consumers are supposed to apply one ounce or two tablespoons of sunscreen to get adequate protection. That’s a lot of Tinted Moisturizer and personally, I’m very lighthanded with makeup. So perhaps it’s a good thing that Stila, which has long had a popular tinted moisturizer with an SPF of 15, recently added a TM with an SPF of 30.
Stila’s SPF 30 TM is basically a physical sunscreen composed of zinc oxide (the SPF 15 version is a chemical sunscreen). The benefit of zinc oxide is it provides the full spectrum of UVA and UVB coverage. That protection comes at a cost for some women. Zinc Oxide can look greasy on some people – it usually leaves my face looking like an oil slick. The use of a primer or mattifier should counteract that effect, however. Stila usually has a great selection of shades for a wide variety of women, but I found this product lacking. The Tan, Dark 1, looks like it would best work for women with cafe au lait-colored skin. The next darkest shade available in this product, Warm, Dark 2 happens to also be the product’s darkest shade, which means it has to work for women ranging from caramel colored to dark chocolate. That’s a wide range for one shade to cover.
Active Ingredients: Octinoxate 7.5%, Zinc oxide 5.0%, Oxybenzone 4.0%
Inactive Ingredients: Purified Water (aqua), Diethylhexyl Carbonate, Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate, PEG-12 Dimethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Magnesium Sulfate, Cetyl Dimethicone, Beeswax (Cera Alba), Microcrystalline Wax (Cera Microcristallina), Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, Hexyl Laurate, Cetyl PEG/PPG- 10/1 Dimethicone, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Poterium Officinale (Burnet) Root Extract, Cinnamomum Cassia (Cinnamon) Bark Extract, Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root Extract, Silk Amino Acids, Glycerin, Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract, Butylene Glycol, Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Methylparaben, Benzoic Acid. May contain: Titanium Dioxide (ci 77891), Iron Oxides (ci 77491, ci 77492, ci 77499) <iln c71051>
Cost: $36
CLINIQUE: Superfit Makeup
Clinique Superfit Makeup
I knew Clinique was going through a huge transition with its foundations when it became harder to find some of its old stalwarts. Superfit makeup was one of those Clinique perennials; the company relaunched it last year. The foundation is supposed to be a long-wearing one that withstands humidity and the oily onslaught of your T-zone area. Unfortunately, this foundation contains Isostearyl Palmitate, which can irritate skin with repeated use. It would be wise to start using it in an unobtrusive area before applying it to your face.
One thing that always horrified me about Clinique’s makeup is how unnatural some of the shades look, particularly the ones for women of color. The company seemed to rectify matters when it launched the Perfectly Real line. Superfit doesn’t provide the wide range of shades that Perfectly Real does, but at least Clinique is acknowledging women of color. There are three shades in the olive/dark range: Nutmeg, Toffee Brown and Spicy. Unfortunately, the Nutmeg looks extremely orange. Fair-skinned women are also complaining that the lightest shade is too dark for them. Clinique could probably do a lot more business if it began offering products that work for women at the extreme ends of the skin shade spectrum.
Ingredients: Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Butylene Glycol, Nylon-12, Bis-Peg/Ppg-14/14 Dimethicone, Trimethylsiloxysilicate, Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, Isostearyl Palmitate, Triethylhexanoin, Magnesium Stearate, Silk Powder\Serica\Poudre De Soie, Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract, Laminaria Saccharina Extract, Bisabolol, Cetyl Peg/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Glycerin, C9-15 Fluoroalcohol Phosphate, Hexyl Laurate, Laureth-7, Nylon-6, Polyethylene Terephthalate, Polyurethane-9, Polyethylene, Hydroxyapatite, Dimethicone, Alumina, Silica, Sodium Chloride, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Sorbic Acid, Chlorphenesin, [+/- Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Iron Oxides (CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499), Zinc Oxide (CI 77947), Mica]
Cost: $20.50
NEUTROGENA: Mineral Sheers Liquid Foundation SPF 20
Neutrogena Mineral Sheers Foundation
This drugstore product seems to be trying to capitalize on the success of Yves Saint Laurent’s Perfect Touch makeup. Both use a brush attached to the foundation bottle so you can stroke the product onto your skin easily. I never though this method of application was a good idea. What happens if you squeeze too much product out of the bottle? Is there a way for you to push the extra foundation back into the container? The attached brush may also, in constant use, accumulate yucky things that you don’t really want to brush onto your face repeatedly.
I’m also disappointed with the shade selection of this product. Mineral Sheers Liquid comes in 12 shades, but Neutrogena clearly only wishes to accommodate a limited range of skin tones. Women with dark skin are simply not in that category, apparently. Those with honey colored skin are probably the darkest ones who can use this makeup since “Tan” is the darkest shade. If this approach works for Neutrogena, fine. But it seems to me the company is ignoring a huge audience of potential customers by not having foundations that serve a wider variety of skin shades.
Active Ingredients: Octinoxate (7.5%), Octisalate (3%), Titanium Dioxide (6.3%)
Inactive Ingredients: Water, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Cyclomethicone, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Silica, PEG-75 Stearate, Butylene Glycol, VP/Hexadecene Copolymer, Dimethicone, Lauroyl Lysine, Retinyl Palmitate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ascorbic Acid, Pantothanic Acid, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Flour, Caprylyl Glycol, Ceteth-20, Steareth-20, Sclerotium Gum, Polymethylmethacrylate, Tetrasodium EDTA, Ethylparaben, Methylparaben, Proplyparaben, Phenoxyethanol, Sorbic Acid, Mica, Iron Oxides
Cost: $14.49
NARS: Firming Foundation
NARS Firming Foundation
NARS just introduced this new Firming Foundation. It’s not listed on the company’s site yet, but it’s now available at Sephora, Nordstrom and Saks. One great thing about this makeup is that NARS really extended its shade range. Jamaica was the darkest shade in the Oil Free Foundation, which was my favorite before I realized it was breaking me out. The Balanced Foundation includes Jamaica, Tahiti and Hawaii for darker skinned girls. This new line features New Guinea for medium complexions with yellow undertones and Benares for medium complexions with red undertones. Plus Trinidad for dark complexions with yellow undertones and Torguga for the darkest complexions. Shades such as New Orleans, Cadiz and Tahoe should serve light skinned women well.
What I really like about this makeup is its really simple formulation. Firming Foundation is basically a glycerin-based foundation that includes a lot of antioxidant ingredients and Polypeptides, which are great for the skin. One question you have to ask yourself is whether you apply enough foundation on your face to get the benefits of the ingredients. If you do, Firming Foundation could be worth its rather high price tag.
Ingredients: Vitamin E Acetate, Argireline, Dermaxyl, Rigin, Boswellia Extract, Algae Extract, Centella Asiatica Ext. Organic, Gatuline RP with Vitamin C, Glycerin, Fucus Vesiculosus Extract, Ascorbic Acid, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide
Cost: $50
BOBBI BROWN: Moisture Rich Foundation SPF 15
Bobbi Brown Moisture Rich Foundation
This popular foundation is a Bobbi Brown classic for women with normal to dry skin. Warm Natural, Honey, Golden, Warm Almond, Almond, Warm Walnut, Walnut, Chestnut and Expresso will work for women with a wide range of skin colors and undertones. The foundation is also buildable, so it should hide any skin imperfections.
One problem I have long had with this line is that the darker colors, i.e. Walnut and Chestnut, tend to veer towards orange. But I give Bobbi Brown kudos for adding more deeper shades into the mix. A few years ago, she only sold the Almond, Walnut and Chestnut, which went from yellow undertones to a deep orange. Unfortunately, although I love the concept of Bobbi Brown’s makeup line, her foundation and concealer products tend to break me out. This product contains Isocetyl Alcohol, which is highly comedogenic. Jojoja oil also may cause some women’s skin to break out, but other women really love using it as a moisturizer.
Ingredients: Purified Water, Cyclomethicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Butylene Glycol, Dimethicone, Dimethicone Copolyol, Carpylic/Capric Triglyceride, Octyl Methoxycinnamate, Isocetyl Alcohol, Isohexadecane, Wheat Germ Glycerides, Magnesium Sulfate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Jojoba Oil, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Whey Protein, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Lavender, Triethyl Citrate, Cholesterol, Linoleic Acid, Propylene Carbonate, Sorbitan Stearate, Dimethicone Copolyol Crosspolymer, Quaternium-18 Hectorite, HDI/Trimethyol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, Cetyl Dimethicone Copolyol, Laureth-7, Xanthan Gum, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Triclosan, Chloroxylenol, BHT, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben. (+/-)Titanium Dioxide, Iron Oxides, Mica
Cost: $42
CARGO: Foundation Oil Free
Cargo Oil Free Foundation
Cargo is another cosmetics line that offers a wide range of shades for women of color. I love how this foundation comes in a squeezable bag, it provides a welcome change from the familiar glass bottle, stick or compact. But I would be concerned about spills if I didn’t/couldn’t close the bag immediately after squeezing makeup out. And if something accidentally dropped on the foundation, I’d worry that the impact could make some makeup squirt out.
I tried the line’s oil free foundation several years ago and easily found a shade that matched my brown skin with yellow undertones. There’s a lot to choose from. F40 is a neutral sandy beige; F60 is a cafe au lait with pink undertones; and F80 is a mocha with yellow undertones. Things went downhill after I started using this makeup, however. I quickly began to breakout and had to go into cease and dismiss mode. There’s no way to know what ingredient or ingredient combination caused the reaction. But this foundation does contain Sodium Chloride, which is known for being highly comedogenic.
Ingredients: Water, CyclopentaSiloxane, Isododecane, Sorbitan Isostearate, Glycerin, Caprylyl Dimethicone Ethoxy Glucoside, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Aluminum Magnesium Hydroxide Stearate, Zinc Stearate, Silica, Sodium Chloride, Methylparaben, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Fragrance, Propylparaben, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Linalool, Benzyl Salicylate, Coumarin, Hydroxyisohexyl 3 Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde, Citronellol. May Contain: Mica, Titanium Dioxide, Iron Oxides, Ultramarines
Cost: $28
CLINIQUE: Pefectly Real
Clinique Perfectly Real Foundation
This was a foundation that I quickly purchased when it first came out. Clinique has always frustrated me because some of their foundations – for example, Repairwear Antiaging, Clarifying and Stay True – don’t have shades in the Olive Dark range. Basically, a good portion of Clinique makeup is created for women with light to medium colored skin.
Perfectly Real was Clinique’s way of reaching out to the multi-racial masses. There are 25 shades that should work for almost every woman. Unfortunately, the formula, for me at least, was not ideal. Talc and Titanium Dioxide break me out and I did, indeed, break out from this product. Too bad Clinique doesn’t apply this all-embracing policy to all of its other foundations.
Ingredients: Talc, Silica, isostearyl Palmitate, Methicone, Nylon-12, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glycerin, Alumina, Triethoxycaprylyisilane, Tetrasodium EDTA, Chlorphenesin, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Titanium Dioxide, Iron Oxides, Chromium Oxide Greens, Mica, Manganese Violet, Ultramarines, Carmine, Bismuth Oxychloride, Orange 4 Lake, Red 30 Lake.
Cost: $22.50
MAKE UP FOR EVER: Mat Velvet + Mattifying Foundation
Make Up For Ever Mat Velvet +
Make Up For Ever is a cosmetics line I always recommend to people because it has such a wide range of shades with a variety of undertones. Whether you have skin the color of bittersweet chocolate or a cafe au lait complexion, you can find something that works. The Mat Velvet line, for instance, includes shades of Sand, Neutral Beige, Honey Beige, Golden Beige, Caramel, Coffee, Cognac, Brown and Chocolate.
The formula includes modified corn starch, a great ingredient to control oil. But corn starch also causes some people to break out. I’m always concerned about products that contain Sodium Chloride, aka salt. Salt is considered highly comedogenic. But as is always the case, the possible side effects depends on the sensitivity of your skin.
Ingredients: Cyclopentasiloxane, Aqua (Water), Corn Starch Modified, Bis-PEG/PPG-14/14 Dimethicone, Neopentyl Glycol Diethylhexanoate, Glycerin, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Mica, Magnesium Sulfate, Sodium Chloride, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Aluminum Hydroxide, Propylene Carbonate, Propylparaben, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Chlorphenesin, Methylparaben, Tetrasodium EDTA, Parfum (Fragrance), Cyclohexasiloxane, Sodium Myristoyl Glutamate, Hexyl Cinnamal, Limonene, Citronellol, Geraniol, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Linalool, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone. May Contain: CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), CI 77491(Iron Oxides), CI 77492 (Iron Oxides), CI 77499 (Iron Oxides).
Cost: $34
MAKE UP FOR EVER: HD Invisible Cover Foundation
Make Up For Ever HD Invisible Cover
Make Up For Ever recently introduced this foundation, ostensibly for those who need to withstand the prying eyes of High Definition television’s powerful cameras. But I’m sure most of the women who plan to use this makeup won’t be in the television or film industry. Invisible Cover is an ideal product for any woman looking for a medium coverage foundation that covers discolorations and other problems.
MUFE remains a favorite line of mine because its wide range of shades. Light- to dark-skinned women with beige, pink, yellow, coral and olive undertones can probably find a suitable shade in this line. Too bad other makeup companies aren’t this thorough.
Unfortunately, Invisible Cover contains Talc, which I personally can’t use because it breaks me out. The formulation also includes Sodium Chloride, which is salt, a highly comedogenic ingredient. One of the main reasons why I don’t use MUFE is because most of the company’s liquid foundations contain Sodium Chloride. I’m not sure if Sodium Chloride will affect my skin and I’m too afraid to try it out.
Ingredients: Aqua, Cyclopentasiloxane, Neopentyl Glycol Diethylhexanoate, Mica, Talc, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Phenyl Trimethicone, Sodium Chloride, Lauroyl Lysine, Dimenthicone Crosspolymer, Glyceryl Caprylate, Methylpropanediol, Butylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Sodium Myristoyl Glutamate, Cyclohexacyloxane, Methylisothiazolinone, Sorbitan Sesquileate, Silver Oxide, Propylene, Carbonate, Parfum (fragrance), Methylparaben, Fagus Sylvatica Extract (Fagus Sylvatica Bud Extract), Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein, [+/- CI 77891 )titanium Dioxide), CI 77491 (Iron Oxides), CI 77499 (Iron Oxides).
Cost: $40
MAC: Studio Fix Fluid SPF15
MAC Studio Fix
This is a classic MAC product that anyone searching for an oil-free, long-wearing foundation seems to try at one point or another. One of the reasons I gave up on MAC foundations a long time ago is the company tended to put all of the dark shades in the NW category, which is heavily orange. I needed a dark shade with a yellow undertone. I’ve been impressed with how MAC has added a number of darker NC shades in recent years, such as NC42, NC44, NC45, NC50, NC55. Studio Fix has an impressively large range of shades for women with warm or cool undertones.
The ingredients list for this foundation looks pretty harmless. This is a silicone-based foundation that most women will be able to use without worry. It does contain Butylene Glycol, which is mildly comedogenic. Some people say products with Algae Extract should be avoided, but I’ve had good experiences with it. It also contains silica, which in combination with silicones can be mildly comedogenic. It would probably be a good idea for those with problem skin to test this foundation in a hard to see area before putting it all over the face.
Ingredients: Water/Aqua/Eau, Cyclopentansiloxane, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Butylene Glycol, Trimethylsiloxysilicate, Ethylhexl Methoxycinnamate, Dimethicone, Magnesium Sulfate, Silica, Dimethicone/PEG-10/15 Crosspolymer, Laminaria Saccharina Extract, Algae Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Hyluronate, Lecithin, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Xanthan Gum, Sorbitan Sesquioleate, Methoxyamodimethicone/Silsesquioxane Copolymer, Laureth-7, PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Triethoxycapylylsilane, Propylene Carbonate, BHT, Chloroxylenol, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Propylparaben. May contain: Titanium Dioxide, Iron Oxides, Chromium Oxide Greens.
Italics=potentially comedogenic or irritating ingredients.
Cost: $25
MultiFACEted Cosmetics 